(A Field & Stream Excerpt) The swamp was the place to be. It was where all the whitetails came from, retreated to, and felt safe enough to move in daylight in the high-pressure public-land area I was hunting. But as I clanged my way awkwardly through brush and mud with an old lock-on stand and bulky climbing sticks, I realized that I had the wrong tools for the job. And it was costing me opportunities.
What I needed was a system that was extremely light, mobile, and versatile—and that’s when I started exploring saddle hunting. For anyone wanting to test the mobile-hunting waters, it’s important to understand that there is a steep learning curve. It took me months to get the basics and years to fine-tune my saddle-hunting game. If you want to go mobile this fall, summer is a good time to start. Here’s what you need to know for taking the plunge into saddle hunting right now—when most are preoccupied throwing poppers for bass and roasting smores—so when fall arrives you can hang from a tree with confidence.
Is Saddle Hunting Right for You?
Used by arborists and linemen long before hunters, this tree-climbing method was created with safety in mind. If done correctly, you’re always attached to the tree. But it’s not safer than a good lifeline, safety harness, and ladder stand. And it’s not any quicker than properly setting a small hang-and-hunt lock-on. In fact, my favorite setup is still a tree stand that’s well concealed, set months in advance, that I can just walk in and hunt and leave when done. So, it begs the question: Is a saddle the best hunting tool for you? To help you decide, here is a breakdown of the situations when it makes sense to grab a saddle and when it doesn’t.
When to Use a Saddle Over Pre-Set Stands and Blinds
- When hunting odd-shaped trees is necessary for being in the right spot
- When shooting around the backside of a tree is needed
- When there’s inadequate cover (saddle hunting allows hiding behind the tree)
- When you want to hunt dozens of locations with minimal gear
- When scouting or hunting new areas where you can’t prepare trees
- In high-pressure areas where you need to constantly move to stay on deer
- When you’re concerned with theft (saddle gear is removed each time you hunt)
- When you don’t want other hunters knowing your hunting locations
- For hard-to-access areas where minimal gear opens the opportunity to hunt it
When Not to Use Over Pre-Set Stands or Blinds
- When you can pre-set a stand or blind months ahead of time in a quality location
- When deer travel patterns necessitate a quick entry or exit. Setting up or tearing down a saddle system is extra effort, potential noise, and done at times when deer are most active, potentially spooking them.
- When all day sits are required, as saddles can be less comfortable than stands or blinds
- When sitting on the ground allows for the best shot opportunity or least intrusive access.
If a fair number of the items on the first list apply to you, then getting and learning how to use a tree saddle is probably a good idea and a worthwhile investment. Here’s the gear you’ll need.
Saddle Hunting Gear: The Basics
1. Climbing System:
For getting to hunting height, I prefer climbing sticks with aiders (loops added to get another step from each stick). Usually 3 to 4 of these can get you to a 20-foot hunting height and make fairly quick work of the climb. Another option is strap-on or screw-in steps, which require many more (10 to 12 at least). A third option is the single-rope technique (SRT). Here you prep trees by throwing a line over a limb, then you use a climbing rope to belay yourself up and down.
